Insider tip for traveling in the USA – on the trail of a murdered German

More than just desert: modern, multicultural and culinary, the city in Texas has a lot to offer. Art lovers, adventurers and cowboy fans will be particularly impressed.

San Antonio – Between cowboy and big city romance – somewhere the visitor to the city of San Antonio will find themselves. Travelers walk on wide streets between high-rise buildings, old buildings of history and modernity. If the visitor dares, they can even find a little bit of German home in the seventh largest metropolis in the USA.

“Our hospitality is as warm as the weather,” says Victor Rivera. He is the owner of La Vida Coffee in downtown San Antonio. His business is characterized by a love of enjoyment and culinary diversity. “I am diabetic myself and therefore pay close attention to what we use when it comes to our food,” he says. His employee Destiny has her own bakery, which she believes sells a variety of baked goods. A good starting point for a breakfast while exploring the city. From his café it is just a stone’s throw to the San Antonio River, which flows right through the city.

You can explore San Antonio on foot and by water

If you want, you can take a short tour through the canals on a kayak or a motorized boat. Good contacts for this are either the “Texas River Company” or “Mission Kayak”. If you prefer to be taken directly through the city center on one of the large ships, you can do this with “Go Rio”, for example. The organizer offers the opportunity to get in at various locations within the city. These include the “Rivercenter Ticket Booth” and the “Aztec Theater Ticket Booth”. The keen boater can hardly miss the approaches. They appear in easily recognizable places on the banks of the river. You can then enjoy the lights of the city on the water in a special atmosphere. Due to the dense development of new and old houses, there is a new story to be discovered at every corner of the river.

The city can also be explored on foot – with “MOV Tours” the willing walker has the chance. A tour of special art awaits taste and history enthusiasts with guide Melvin. Last but not least, the visitor learns more about the “murder” of the German entrepreneur Otto Köhler in 1914 by his hostess Emma – his wife and another lover stood by her – presumably because they were fed up with his polygamy. Thanks to the statement of the angry wife, the court dealing with the case interpreted the fatal shot against Otto as self-defense. For the first time: All three share the name Emma and later also the master brewer’s fortune.

German history in the trendy district of San Antonio

Today’s Hotel Emma has taken up the name. Based on the Köhlers’ former factory, a lively house was created with charming elements of a German industrial town from the 18th and 19th centuries. “In memory of the three Emmas, there is a drink named after them,” Melvin explains to visitors on the tour. “You tolerate two of them well.” “The third one blows your mind,” says the guide and laughs. The brewery was founded under Emma Köhler until descendants sold the business to the “Pabst Brewing Company” in 1985. The Hotel Emma is located in the historic district of “The Pearl”, which is also home to hip shops such as the “Bakery Lorraine”, where young people in particular will feel at home. Macarons and croissants simply taste better with New Wave beats.

At “Schilos” on E Commerce Street, visitors can find a bite to eat that is reminiscent of their German home. Between nostalgia in the form of 20th century postcards from Old Europe and metal signs, Bill Lyons and his team serve dishes reminiscent of their former homeland with a southern touch. Lyons, himself partly a descendant of German immigrants, loves his shop and the employees. “We are like a family here,” says the senior boss. And the guest in the rustic restaurant actually feels a little as if they were in an old German inn. “After the war we had some German ladies working with us here. They clearly shaped and helped shape the store.” to learn American history.

San Antonio: Hotspot for museum lovers in the USA

In addition to the unusual food, the city also has a lot to offer in its museums. In addition to the Witte Museum, which provides an interesting insight into the period of colonization of Texas and the animal life of the region, the Briscoe Western Art Museum and the San Antonio Museum of Arts show deep insights into the world of the Western and other countries. The last museum in particular is characterized by a wide collection of cultural treasures. From Greece to China to modern art, the museum offers culture lovers entertainment for a whole day. If you want to delve even deeper into the history of the place, you can visit the legendary Alamo or one of the city’s other Spanish missions. These not only serve as inspiration or backdrop for John Wayne films, but also bear the history of the place – from settlement by the Spanish, to independence from Mexico, to joining the United States of America.

If you need something hearty to eat after long excursions, shops like Boudro’s Texas Bistro on the banks of the San Antonio River or Rosarios on St. Mary’s Street are also recommended. Guests are served either some of the best steaks in the state of Texas or exceptional dishes such as cow tongue. But that’s not all, because both menus also contain typical city dishes. In Rosarios, for example, you can find exciting Mexican cuisine such as tacos or nachos – but with the real flair of South America. What both shops have in common is a diverse restaurant history, which is expressed through hospitality. The first priority – as in every store in San Antonio – is always customer satisfaction. “We want to offer our guests a unique experience when it comes to our steaks,” says Chef Manuel Ortiz of Boudro’s.

Many opportunities for an adventure in and around San Antonio

“Mural Ride Bike Tour” offers an introduction to the current art scene with a rather unusual e-bike tour. “I want to show people the special street art history of the place,” says Brian Benavidez. And you get more than the opportunity to do that on one of his e-bike tours, when Benavidez navigates his guests through the streets of the big city and introduces extraordinary works of art and graffiti. Some of the artists have already immortalized themselves with their works in Europe – including in Frankfurt. Another stop for modern art in the city is the Bluestar Complex. In this cozy backyard there is a bicycle rental and various art activities and exhibitions.

Further outside the city you have the chance to immerse yourself even deeper in nature and cowboy life. On the one hand, the Natural Bridge Caverns offer a fascinating insight into the caves in the area. And with different levels of difficulty. Everything your heart desires can be booked here, from a leisurely tour to challenging cave climbing. On the other hand, real rodeo fans have the chance to watch the cowboys and girls at work at the “Tejas Rodeo” in Bulverde. Both locations also offer typical American dishes such as steaks, burgers and sandwiches in their restaurants. You can’t get more Texas than that.

The city offers various options for overnight stays. From Inns and Bnbs to four-star hotels, everything is possible. For people who like it comfortable, we recommend the Intercontinental San Antonio in addition to the already mentioned Hotel Emma. The establishment opened on August 1, 2024 and can already boast numerous positive reviews. The quality of the rooms and the furnishings speak for themselves. But the hotels have unparalleled service – usually pools, fitness rooms and bars.

San Antonio travel tips:

Since May 17, 2024, the Condor airline has been offering a connection from Frankfurt Airport to San Antonio. It’s worth booking early as it makes the flight significantly cheaper. For 2025, Condor will again offer direct flights to San Antonio on Mondays and Fridays from May 23rd to August 29th. To travel to the USA, German holidaymakers need an ESTA visa. This costs $21 (around 20 euros) and should be requested at least 72 hours before travel. A valid passport is still required. We recommend that you have a credit card and enough cash for any tips when on vacation. On average, restaurant visits cost between $20 and $100 for one person. If service is good, a tip of around 15 to 20 percent is expected. Museum visits cost between $10 and $30.

In summer the temperatures can rise to around 35 degrees Celsius – sunscreen and hats should also be packed. Almost every building has air conditioning. In Texas it is legal to carry weapons as a citizen, but this looks pretty bad. Almost all shops prohibit entry with weapons. The city and its residents are very health-conscious. Smoking is only permitted in specifically approved places. Violation can result in expensive penalties. Activities – especially as groups – should be reserved and registered in advance so that there is no disappointment on site that there is not enough capacity. (Sören Kemnade)