Concerns about rye bread: trends and challenges for Thuringian bakeries

The classic mixed rye bread, which still accounts for 4 out of 10 breads sold in Thuringia, among others, is on the decline. “White flour is used less often, but spelled is used more often,” says Paul Süpke. “And you can also bake white bread with it,” he reports. The Süpke bakery in the Sömmerda district of Orlishausen has 14 branches and around 60 permanent employees. And currently offers around 20 types of bread. “But not everyone at all times,” says junior boss Paul Süpke. Like other bakeries, the family business also has a bread calendar that shows what is available and when. The trademarked Black Hamser, a bread with rye sourdough, wholemeal meal and lots of grains, is only available on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

“Many people baked themselves during the Corona period and learned to appreciate good bread again,” says Süpke. “And bakers are now benefiting from this.” Mario Gräfe, head of the confectionery from Eisenberg, confirms the trend away from wheat flour. He also has around 20 types of bread in his program, which are sold at a total of nine locations in eastern Thuringia. Spelled, einkorn or hemp seeds were in demand – and were also nutritionally trendy. Because of more protein or more fiber and fewer intolerances. And good bakers also like to try something new. “And you’re happy when it’s accepted,” says Gräfe.

Bakeries today often work more effectively than before – thanks to smart software. “This helps us with expectations of how much is needed on which day.” After all, as little as possible should end up in the bin – and modern programs are constantly fed with new sales data. “But we also notice very simple things. For example, demand drops if school sandwiches are not made during the holidays,” reports Süpke.

And if anything is left over, it is either donated or recycled. “80 percent of the taste comes from the crust,” says Süpke. Leftover mixed bread is dried, shredded and added to a dough – and then gives the new one more flavor. Meanwhile, baking mixes, which were also fashionable among some craft bakers after the fall of the Wall, were on the decline. “For example, there was a Nordländer bread, but many bakers had it in their range and it was the same everywhere,” says Süpke. The Sömmerdaer Bakery, on the other hand, relies more on its own recipes and sometimes even registered brands such as the Black Hamster.

Both bakers said that prices have currently stabilized somewhat. Energy prices have fallen compared to the high level from 2022. “But personnel costs have increased,” confirmed Gräfe. If the minimum wage increases, the higher salary groups also want to earn more. And 50 percent of sales went to employees. “The financial situation is stable, but tense,” says the head of the Eisenberg company. Necessary investments are often postponed. “Then the oven has to run for another year.”

However, cocoa and chocolate, butter and olive oil have noticeably risen in price at the moment. “It literally exploded,” says Süpke. Butter has doubled – consumers are also feeling this in supermarkets with prices sometimes well over 3 euros per piece. And this leads to a price increase, especially for another popular product – Stollen. “I calculated back and forth,” said Gräfe. It has to increase by 9 percent to compensate for the higher raw material costs – there is a lot of butter in the stollen. Turkish raisins had also become significantly more expensive. “And I don’t know of any good stollen bakers who change their recipe differently. Some of the recipes are centuries old.” When the first Stollen can be bought from him in November, he expects demand to be slightly less. “People might then prefer the slightly smaller Stollen.”